Let
us
be
honest
–
many
of
us
who
enjoy
the
sunshine
state
totally
ignore
north
Florida
on
our
way
southward
to
its
lavish
and
sometimes
overwhelmed
tropical
destinations.
If
so,
we
are
doing
ourselves
a
great
disservice
especially
if
the
goal
is
a
low-maintenance
family
getaway
in
a
natural
setting.
In
fact,
heading
farther
south
is
not
necessary
as
some
of
the
most
astounding
examples
of
our
nation’s
tropical
natural
resources
can
be
found
in
the
panhandle.
Just
south
of
the
Alabama/Georgia
State
line
confluence
and
in
the
vicinity
of
Tallahassee’s
very
user-friendly
airport,
lies
environmentally
serene
and
ecologically-rich
Franklin
County.
Named
after
Benjamin
Franklin,
the
County
is
accurately
and
appropriately
billed
as
a
Florida’s
Natural
Escape,
very
modestly
waiting
for
the
creative
as
well
as
the
nature-appreciating
traveler.
So
what is so unique about
a region many Florida
travelers may not have
even heard of? For starters,
87% of Franklin County
is in either state or
federally protected parkland
or nature preserve. The
rest comprised of thoughtfully
preserved communities
conspicuously lacking
high rises and interspersed
with friendly neighborhoods
and historically significant
attractions. Stop and
think about this – a county,
with a permanent resident
population of 10,000,
has voluntarily preserved
500 acres of premium and
pristine forest, wetlands,
200 miles of coastline
and beaches forever. This
astounding complete absence
of sprawl will make anyone
think twice about expending
the additional time and
effort to continue to
the vast overly engineered
and landscaped destinations
in South Florida they
have been conditioned
to seek out.
These
creative growth controls do not
in any way mean the absence of
modern amenities such as meticulously
planned historic and contemporary
beach communities. This also
goes for the cozy county seat
of Apalachicola – or “Aplach”
as the locals say – where Mayberry
meets Old Florida. A few steps
in any Aplach direction will
reveal an effective sprinkling
of quaint shops, historic buildings,
docked boats, inns, unique restaurants
and even an outdoor concert among
work and pleasure boats - almost
as it looked and felt 50 years
ago. An excellent snapshot of
this quality, as well as a fun
rest stop, is the Old Time Soda
Fountain Gift and Shells on Market
Street, a modest cross between
a soda fountain of old and gift
shop specializing in shells and
the best ice cream cones. Nothing
captured the town’s spirit better
than a sign on the entrance saying
“Our restroom is for anyone who
needs it – come on in”. Try to
find that in the big city.
Pedestrian-friendly
Aplach is mindful of both it’s
natural resources heritage and
responsibility to encourage commerce
by preserving shopping districts
and visitor attractions along
with 200 historic buildings dating
from the 1830s – all the while
showcasing the maritime culture
and fishing fleets as part of
a “working waterfront” and downtown
area. Franklin County considers
its seafood industry, the backbone
of its culture and heritage,
a matter of pride with workboats
literally sprinkled among the
charters and sailboats rather
than relegated to some “other”
part of town.
As
an asset, the working waterfront
is incorporated into Aplach’s
revitalization promoting this
classic community as sort of
an endangered species unto itself
in contrast to other overly paved
destinations. One can easily
visualize Forrest Gump puttering
back from a successful shrimping
expedition to unload his bounty
among historic antique shops
and outdoor waterfront festivals.
Seafood is not only the paramount
industry but is also the must-eat
staple of the local eating establishments
and most restaurant menus are
delightfully unpredictable for
no other reason than a community-wide
commitment to serve only what
is caught locally at that time
– which can vary based on the
fickle yet productive critter
soup of the Apalachicola Bay
and the Gulf of Mexico.
Make
no mistake - living at one with
nature does not mean you have
to rough it or go without the
family-friendly and premium relaxation
experience many search for in
a vacation. Here, nature is to
be enjoyed – not avoided. Accommodations
are numerous as the recreational
opportunities and thoughtful
planners have strategically intertwined
modest and luxury sized condos,
homes, historic inns, hotels
and vacation rentals in the communities
and waterfront areas of Carrabelle,
Alligator Point, Dog Island,
Eastpoint, St. George Island,
and St. Vincent Island – none
of which are too big to enjoy
on foot or by bike. These communities
mix old and new Florida around
intersection communities thoughtfully
interspersed with contemporary
housing and waterfront access.
Not
surprisingly, some of the most
modern yet competitively priced
real estate in the entire region
can be found here whether renting
or buying. A few exemplary selections
ideal for families include St.
James Bay – an Audubon International
Certified Silver Signature Sanctuary
new golf course development,
Picketts and Pirate’s Landings
in Carrabelle and Harbor Point
Realty in Alligator Point providing
easy waterfront access. For something
different, Aplach offers the
historic Victorian era Gibson
Inn, Coombs Inn B & B,
as well as affordable yet modern
waterfront hotels and properties
including the new Water Street
Hotel & Marina.
For beachfront on the Gulf of
Mexico, the sandy strip of St.
George Island offers an astounding
selection of styles and sizes
of cottages, bungalows and condos.
My favorite area is the east
end of the island at St. George’s
Island State Park which terminates
the serene barrier island - combining
all the comforts of a pristine
beach and nature preserve without
excessive crowds.
To
truly revel in the County’s horn
of plenty, is to enjoy the juxtaposition
of these amenities against the
backdrop of the most notable
of its qualities – the incredible
abundance of unique natural resources.
The ecologically inclined will
quickly realize that this region
is not only at the southern most
reach of the east coast's temperate
ecosystems but is also in the
Florida subtropical zone. This
unique blend of habitats in the
Panhandle region along with the
mixing of fresh and salt water
fauna provides a very rare and
astoundingly diverse ecosystem
of its own with record numbers
of plant and animal communities
rarely seen elsewhere – including
the old Florida look of live
oaks and Spanish moss, Tupelo
forests (where the honey comes
from), as well as a plethora
of rare species including loggerhead
sea turtles and bald eagles,
dwarf cypress swamps and numerous
birds.
The
crown jewel of the area is the
nation’s second largest estuarine
preserve - the Apalachicola National
Estuarine Research Reserve (ANERR)
– where fresh water fisheries
mix with salt water making a
resource so productive and pristine
that numerous government agencies
and scientists from all over
the world manage and study this
area concurrently. As one might
imagine hiking, cycling, fishing,
kayaking, canoeing, birding and
camping rule here. The ANERR
is a national renowned “biological
hotspot” and one of the last
ecosystems of its kind comprising
1300 species of plants, 131 species
of fish and over 50 species of
mammals including black bears
and manatees. Try the ANERR boat
tour for a rare glimpse of the
tupelo honey wetlands, bald eagles
and an excellent view of Aplach’s
waterfront when departing and
approaching.
Other
premium natural preserves include
Bald Point State Park, Tate’s
Hell State Forest, St. George’s
Island State Park, Apalachicola
National Forest, and St. Vincent
National Wildlife Refuge. Try
the High Bluff Hiking and Deep
Creek Birding Trails at Tate’s
Hell for pristine cypress wetlands
and birding. St. Vincent’s provides
the most remote habitat and photographic
opportunities. St. George’s is
the best for beaching it and
biking - as is the whole island.
Bald Point has even more similar
opportunities plus the best Black
Bear viewing. Guided ecotours
provide access to hard-to-reach
habitats and some environmental
education on the sly. Go with
the comfortable tour boats or
do it yourself with canoes or
kayaks. Try Book me a Charter
for their oyster culture tour
including oystering lessons and
the Wind Catcher and Peregrine
for an authentic sailing experience
on vintage restored sloops. My
favorite is Journeys of St. George
Island providing any manner of
ecotour available including its
Bounty of the Bay tour taking
as many as five persons for a
three-hour trip. The captain
will show children and adults
how to cast for mullet, pull
in blue crab traps and hog for
oysters in the bay.
Do
not underestimate the purity
of relaxing on the dock of a
seafood restaurant at sunset
after a dinner of Grouper or
Red Snapper. As the day fades
to moonlight, denizens of urban
areas will not only appreciate
the salt air, the sounds of rolling
surf and the stirrings of nocturnal
nature but also the absence of
artificial light, noise and any
need to plan. Don't feel guilty
- you earned it.
Picket’s
Landing, Carrabelle, FL, 850 566
6761, www.pickettslanding.com
Incredibly
serene
condo
pockets
of
comfort
with
old
south
charm,
a
pool
and
marina
Harbor
Point Realty, Alligator Point,
FL, 850 349 9599, www.harborpointrealty.com
Various
rentals
including
coastal
cottages,
marina
townhouses
and
bay-front
homes
An
Audubon
International
Certified
Silver
Signature
Sanctuary,
this
is
the
contemporary
place
to
stay
for
“green
golfing”
among
meticulously
preserved
natural
areas
and
wetlands
Coombs
House Inn B&B,
80 Sixth St., Apalachicola, FL,
888 244 8320, www.coombshouseinn.com
A
member
of
Select
Registry
and
American
Historic
Inns,
this
is
a
premier
1911
Victorian
mansion
Gibson
Inn, 51 Avenue C, Apalachicola,
FL, 850 653 2191, www.gibsoninn.com
Another
National
Register
of
Historic
Places
Victorian-era
Inn,
fully
restored
in
1985
Some
dining suggestions
Tiki
Hut at Pirate’s Landing, 275 Timber
Island Rd., Carrabelle, FL, 850
528 1414
One
of
my
favorite
casual
dining
eateries
on
the
Carrabelle
River
for
all
manner
of
seafood
Crooked
River Grill, St. James Bay’s
One
of the best signature link-side
restaurants for dining indoors
or on the patio overlooking the
golf course
Carrabelle
Junction, 88 Tallahassee St.,
Carrabelle, FL, 850 697 9550
My
favorite
most
casual
of
dining
retro
1950s
soda
fountain
eatery
with
a
sprinkling
of
modern fare
and
museum
quality
memorabilia
randomly
scattered
throughout.
That
Place, 17 Avenue E, Apalachicola,
FL, 850 653 9898
More
great
casual
dining
with
local
specialties
Papa
Joe’s Oyster Bar and Grill, Apalachicola,
FL, 850 653 1189
The
place
for
oysters
Veranda’s
Bistro, upstairs at the corner
of Highway 98 and Avenue D, Apalachicola,
FL
850
653
3210,
www.verandasbistro.com
A
perfect
place
to
enjoy
an
in-house
wine
selection
and
tasting
Lafayette
Park, center of Apalachicola's
historic home district
Perfect
for
a
picnic,
this
waterfront
showcase
features
a
perfect
rest
area
with
a
long
fishing
pier
A
small
yet
efficient
dedication
to
the
WWII
amphibious
forces
who
trained
in
Carrabelle
site comprised
of
fascinating
locally
held
and
collected
artifacts
form
the
greatest
generation
Apalachicola
Maritime Museum, 103 Water St.,
Apalachicola, FL, www.ammfl.org
Best
hands-on
learning
of
the
area’s
maritime
history
-
do
not
a
pass
up
a
sailing
excursion
with educational
tales
of
marine
heritage
on
the
replica
of
the
vintage
ketch
The
Heritage
Orman
House State Park
An
1838
Greek
revival
home
overlooking
the
Apalachicola
River
Apalachicola
Vietnam Veterans Memorial Park
Features
a
replica
of
the
statue
at
the
National
Mall
in
Washington
D.C.
John
Gorrie Museum State Park
Commemorates
the
unusual
topic
of
an
ice
machine
invention
to
cool
yellow
fever
patients’ rooms
leading
to
the
first
U.S.
patent
for
mechanical
refrigeration
in
1851
Shopping
The
best shopping in the entire county
is in the pedestrian friendly
main street area in historic downtown
Apalachicola
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