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The masseur at Flamingo's Beach Resort & Spa has healing powers. I know because his hands gently liberated the mass of daily stresses that had bedded themselves deep in my trapezius. I hadn't realized I needed any kneading in the midst of a sun-splashed stay in Mexico until Eduardo eased away the tension. Complete with the spicy scent of burning incense and mystically calm recordings of waves rolling ashore, it was a nice touch.
Reflecting on this hour-long excursion, as I often do during the mundane routines in my wintry not-much-happening-here New England town, leads me to an abundance of cerebral escape routes acquired during this trip to the Puerto Vallarta area and other travels. They include, in no particular order, a late-morning wine tasting in St. Tropez, sights of the icy St. Lawrence from the slopes of La Massif and an isolated pink-sand beach in Kauai .
My journey began in Puerto Vallarta along the Pacific Coast where I enjoyed the artifacts of Colonial Mexico, its music and the liquefied heart of the agave. Two days at the Hacienda San Angel, an open-air boutique hotel, was like being beamed into an antiquary's fantasy. I was surrounded by priceless tapestries, century-old chandeliers dripping with crystals the size of snow globes, sculptures from all over the world and even a sketch attributed to Renoir.
You'd never know you were blocks away from the beach, because the shoreline and mountains serve as a backdrop to the second floor. Californian Janice Chatterton created the hotel by combining three abutting buildings. She bought the first from Susan Burton, who received it as a Valentine's gift from one-time husband Richard. It was one of two villas he'd purchased on the block, the first going to one-time wife, Elizabeth Taylor. Chatterton immersed her refined taste into the details, replacing the worn wicker theme with posh antiques and Colonial architecture.
After a dish of made-to-order cilantro-rich Mexican eggs, I strolled along the cobbled city sidewalks to the beat of a live mariachi band, checking out the shops and admiring modern-day art along the blue-green Banderas Bay . I later moved north to Villa del Palmar, a beach community undergoing heavy development of glitzy resorts and timeshares. I stayed two nights in an ocean-view marble-floored suite during the grand opening of Flamingo's Beach Resort & Spa, where Eduardo performs his mojo.
Following my blissful late-morning massage, I climbed into a van with other writers for a three-hour ride up the mountains. Our destination was the Sierra Lago Resort and Spa, a once-private residence converted into a luxury hideaway two years ago. Located in Jalisco, halfway between Puerto Vallarta and Guadalajara , it is also accessible by private car, which most visitors choose to take or in 20 minutes by commuter plane. I happily left the driving to someone familiar with the winding, rocky road that veers so close to the mountain's edge, you can see the tires kick dust into the canyons. As a passenger I could be awed by the views of the occidental range's pine-oak forest and clay-colored canyons, without anyone's safety being jeopardized.
Sights at the start of this journey consisted mainly of manicured resort lawns and Honda, Pizza Hut and other commercial signage lining well-traveled roads. Gradually the registered trademarks disappeared as our driver steered to narrower gravel roads lined with dusty gas stations and family-run restaurants of plastic tables against a backdrop of clothes flapping dry on a line nearby. Soon, even these madres-y-padres became scarce, submitting us to an even narrower road winding alongsid escarpments, symmetrical plantings of spiny blue agave plants and that symbol of the Mexican countryside: a crumbling building either abandoned or never finished.
Not once did I open the books I brought along to pass the time. Every turn brought a new view. There were no dazzling decorations, no tourists, no hawkers, no museums and the best part -- no kitschy gift shops to steal my attention or my money. Instead, my horizon became the rocky, dry cragginess of Mexico 's principal woodlands and mountain system. Arizona holds the starting point of this approximately 86,000 square mile range, which runs than 1,000 miles parallel to the Pacific coastline. There it meets up with the Sierra del Sur range, which connects with the Sierra Madre Oriental along the Gulf of Mexico . These volcanic-formed mountains create a triangular outline of Mexico , while preserving some of the country's original landscape and culture.
More than 200 species of oaks grow in the Occidental Range as well as 23 species of tropical and subtropical pine. The lumber industry's 200-year attraction to the area is among the many consequences of this immense forest's beauty. While the trade attracts commerce, it also induced developments. The woods also provide the perfect camouflage for the growth of legal and illegal crops, such as poppies and marijuana. Government controls have since been installed, including conservation-minded biospheres, but poachers and other predators, including farmers of questionably legal pickings, continue to lurk. It is therefore advisable to tour with a guide or stay on the beaten track if exploring alone.
The excavation of all but 300,000 acres of the old-growth forest, most of which is contained in the El Carricito del Huichol conservation project, has left limited habitat for now endangered species such as the Mexican gray wolf, black bear, the thick-billed parrot and mountain lion. The world's largest woodpecker, the Imperial, is now extinct.
Other conservation districts include la Michilia Biosphere Reserve in Durango , home to hunch-grass lizards and white-tailed deer, and La Bufa, where I stayed. This area bustled with commerce in the late 1700s to mid 1800s thanks to its copper, gold and silver mines. Fewer than 100 people call this setting home today. Few speak anything but Spanish. I am including the resort staff.
The wooded exterior designs of the resort blend so seamlessly with the mountainous landscape you could drive right by (another reason to hire a driver. From the van window, the Sierra Lago Resort & Spa reminded me of the expensive overnight camps in Maine 's Lakes Region. It is small -- let's say intimate -- and all 23 rooms are well-appointed with five-star luxury. All rooms overlook Juanacatlan Lagoon, a tranquil crater lake dotted with floating lilies and framed by pine trees. The standard cabanas (about $289 U.S a night) resemble master bedroom suites with fine, colorful linens. The eco-suite (about $239 U.S.) looks like a popup tent propped in a small clearing from the outside, but step inside and you'll find a king-size bed, full bathroom decorated in sunny yellow and sky blues Spanish tiles, and even a gas fireplace.
My one-room cabin - aka, Suite Cabaña -- ($351 U.S. ) with its natural-wood stained walls maintained the rustic alpine theme without sacrificing five-star comfort. I slept on a California king-size bed covered by a puffy, white feathered comforter and a dozen down pillows.
The curtained four-poster tub, complete with jets, and a sink encased in thick tiles covered with swirls of yellow, red and blue paint were striking, albeit afforded more romance than privacy as they were right out there in the open. Fuchsia petals were abundant on every surface, including the water in the toilet bowl -- at least upon arrival. Toney handmade soaps and linens folded to resemble exotic birds lined the counters. But where was the hot water? Like the water pressure, it didn't exist, making bathing a chilling experience. Management later adjusted the temperature, but I blamed the altitude for the poor pressure.
A two-storey stone fireplace anchored a sunken sitting area. A painted panel concealed a television and refrigerator stocked with beverages. This area led to a furnished deck overlooking the lagoon. The air smelled of pine and called for lightweight fleece, except early afternoon, when shirtsleeves would suffice.
I never heard or saw the servants who delivered hot coffee or pastries into a window-like alcove of my room each morning. I was just glad to enjoy them while watching the lagoon release its mist. Full breakfast, lunch and dinner are served in the two restaurants. The food, traditional Mexican cuisine, tasted as great as it looked, which is a good thing because there are no dining alternatives. I joined the others for a lunch of paprika-sprinkled cucumbers, soft cheeses, crisp green salads and an assortment of fish and meat entrees in the La Terraza restaurant. Its glass walls offer unobstructed views of the lagoon on one side and a soccer field on the other. An extra treat, served along with the dessert tray, was ranch manager Guillermo Cibrian leading his horse in a dance on the field. Seated on the horse, Cibrian maneuvered the reins, prompting the horse to lift her hooves to the upbeat rhythm of recorded traditional Mexican music. The tandem performs daily for the lunch crowd, which probably stays under 50 people.
After that lunch a few others and I followed Jesus and his dog Blackie, neither of whom spoke English, up the mountain on horseback. The trails are steep, uneven, rock-strewn and narrow. A sudden commotion provoked my horse to jump, freaking me out. I was able to hang on, but as I settled my horse, I saw a New York writer on the ground and his horse running away. Fortunately, our fellow writer was able to get up. The rider said a bird darted out of the trees and spooked his horse. I did not see a bird, but then again, I haven't had my eyes checked in a few years. Thanks to a former ranch hand from Indiana , we were able to get everyone back in the saddle.
The resort offers other forms of recreation, much of it soft considering the altitude. They include kayaking paddle boats, tennis, basketball and mountain biking. I would not recommend swimming in the lagoon. But if you must get wet, the outdoor Jacuzzi is built into the landscape, so you can snuggle up behind a jet of heated water and soak in the sylvan surroundings.
Sometimes my favorite activity is doing nothing but listening to the evening breeze and watching the last of the sun's rays tread softly from the lagoon. A niño stopped by after dark and lit a fire in my fireplace. He left plenty of wood for me to keep the flames burning but my early departure from Girl Scouts made that impossible. I had better luck lighting the dozen or so candle sconces. I bypassed the cable television for the call of a spotted owl. A polyphony of bird songs and flapping wings woke me as the sun rose.
Tufted jays, green parakeets and violet-crowned hummingbirds were among the many performers. A good pair of binoculars helped me spot these feathered wonders, as well as a golden eagle. Other winged-creatures seen here, in the winter anyway, are monarch butterflies. The mountains are the primary migration route for these orange and black beauties because the wind currents provide the perfect flying conditions for their summers in New England .
The high life has a limited night life. There are no clubs and no dancing (besides the horses) and no parties save the cocktail gathering we writers made ourselves. A large fire burned on the deck of El Lago, the main lodge, where we drank imported red and white wines and shots of aged tequila poured from a chunky crystal decanter. We enjoyed squash soups, homemade breads, shrimp, beef and pasta on a candle-lit dining set carved from thick polished oak.
While the offerings along this altitude of the Sierra Madres Occidental tender little for the under-15 set and party-seekers of all ages, they provide a romantic paradise for lovers on honeymoons, second-honeymoons and those, with or without a lover, who just want to embrace the wealth of privacy, peace and quiet of nature.
Hacienda san Angel
www.haciendasanangel.com
Telephone: United States -415-738-8220
Telephone: Mexico 011-52-322-222-2692
Miramar 336, Col. Centro, Puerto Vallarta , Jalisco , Mexico 48300
The Sierra Lago Resort & Spa and the Flamingo Resort & Spa are owned and operated by the American-based Villa Group. Discounted reservations are available online. www.villagroup.com
Access The Sierra Lago Resort by air:
Roundtrip air travel: Alaska Air from Guadalajara and Puerto Vallarta .
Each plane can carry up to six adults.
On land: My van held 10, including the driver, and was a little crowded considering luggage and bulky cameras, laptops and other journalists' supplies. The cost is $200 roundtrip, made even more manageable by divvying it up and adding a tip, which I highly recommend. Arrangements can be made through the Villa Group.
Caution: A word to the ladies: Pace yourselves on the water bottles as roadside
crops provide poor camouflage for the comfort you may need.
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JustSayGO Travel Show
The masseur at Flamingo's Beach Resort & Spa has healing powers. I know because his hands gently liberated the mass of daily stresses that had bedded themselves deep in my trapezius. I hadn't realized I needed any kneading in the midst of a sun-splashed stay in Mexico until Eduardo eased away the tension. Complete with the spicy scent of burning incense and mystically calm recordings of waves rolling ashore, it was a nice touch. 
My journey began in Puerto Vallarta along the Pacific Coast where I enjoyed the artifacts of Colonial Mexico, its music and the liquefied heart of the agave. Two days at the Hacienda San Angel, an open-air boutique hotel, was like being beamed into an antiquary's fantasy. I was surrounded by priceless tapestries, century-old chandeliers dripping with crystals the size of snow globes, sculptures from all over the world and even a sketch attributed to Renoir.
After a dish of made-to-order cilantro-rich Mexican eggs, I strolled along the cobbled city sidewalks to the beat of a live mariachi band, checking out the shops and admiring modern-day art along the blue-green Banderas Bay . I later moved north to Villa del Palmar, a beach community undergoing heavy development of glitzy resorts and timeshares. I stayed two nights in an ocean-view marble-floored suite during the grand opening of Flamingo's Beach Resort & Spa, where Eduardo performs his mojo. 
More than 200 species of oaks grow in the Occidental Range as well as 23 species of tropical and subtropical pine. The lumber industry's 200-year attraction to the area is among the many consequences of this immense forest's beauty. While the trade attracts commerce, it also induced developments. The woods also provide the perfect camouflage for the growth of legal and illegal crops, such as poppies and marijuana. Government controls have since been installed, including conservation-minded biospheres, but poachers and other predators, including farmers of questionably legal pickings, continue to lurk. It is therefore advisable to tour with a guide or stay on the beaten track if exploring alone. 
The wooded exterior designs of the resort blend so seamlessly with the mountainous landscape you could drive right by (another reason to hire a driver. From the van window, the Sierra Lago Resort & Spa reminded me of the expensive overnight camps in Maine 's Lakes Region. It is small -- let's say intimate -- and all 23 rooms are well-appointed with five-star luxury. All rooms overlook Juanacatlan Lagoon, a tranquil crater lake dotted with floating lilies and framed by pine trees. The standard cabanas (about $289 U.S a night) resemble master bedroom suites with fine, colorful linens. The eco-suite (about $239 U.S.) looks like a popup tent propped in a small clearing from the outside, but step inside and you'll find a king-size bed, full bathroom decorated in sunny yellow and sky blues Spanish tiles, and even a gas fireplace. 
I never heard or saw the servants who delivered hot coffee or pastries into a window-like alcove of my room each morning. I was just glad to enjoy them while watching the lagoon release its mist. Full breakfast, lunch and dinner are served in the two restaurants. The food, traditional Mexican cuisine, tasted as great as it looked, which is a good thing because there are no dining alternatives. I joined the others for a lunch of paprika-sprinkled cucumbers, soft cheeses, crisp green salads and an assortment of fish and meat entrees in the La Terraza restaurant. Its glass walls offer unobstructed views of the lagoon on one side and a soccer field on the other. An extra treat, served along with the dessert tray, was ranch manager Guillermo Cibrian leading his horse in a dance on the field. Seated on the horse, Cibrian maneuvered the reins, prompting the horse to lift her hooves to the upbeat rhythm of recorded traditional Mexican music. The tandem performs daily for the lunch crowd, which probably stays under 50 people. 
After that lunch a few others and I followed Jesus and his dog Blackie, neither of whom spoke English, up the mountain on horseback. The trails are steep, uneven, rock-strewn and narrow. A sudden commotion provoked my horse to jump, freaking me out. I was able to hang on, but as I settled my horse, I saw a New York writer on the ground and his horse running away. Fortunately, our fellow writer was able to get up. The rider said a bird darted out of the trees and spooked his horse. I did not see a bird, but then again, I haven't had my eyes checked in a few years. Thanks to a former ranch hand from Indiana , we were able to get everyone back in the saddle. 
Sometimes my favorite activity is doing nothing but listening to the evening breeze and watching the last of the sun's rays tread softly from the lagoon. A niño stopped by after dark and lit a fire in my fireplace. He left plenty of wood for me to keep the flames burning but my early departure from Girl Scouts made that impossible. I had better luck lighting the dozen or so candle sconces. I bypassed the cable television for the call of a spotted owl. A polyphony of bird songs and flapping wings woke me as the sun rose.