Travel by Train

Remember when getting there really was half the fun?

Story and Photos by Glen Brewer

Have you been traveling lately or are you about to? Do you dread it? Do you sometimes long for the time, not so long ago, when traveling was an adventure, when you could really relax while not feeling confined and simply have a good time just getting there?

When traveling longer distances, our fathers and grandfathers, if they could afford it, traveled by train. At least in some markets, this increasingly attractive alternative still exists.

It can't be denied that railroad passenger service in the United States and Canada is not what it was then. In most areas of North America, trains are actually slower, less luxurious, much less frequent and in many regions and on many routes completely non-existent. But there are still regular trains. Better yet, there are increasingly numerous opportunities to ride special trains offering a taste of the old luxury. Also there are many special railroad operations recreating some of the old time experiences.

MORE INFORMATION

Regular Service
Amtrak in the United States and VIA Rail in Canada took over operation of most of the passenger trains previously operated by once proud, private, common carrier railroads. A few isolated railroads and most commuter service was excluded. By that time, railroads had long before ceased to profit from these operations and were anxious to avoid increasing debt.

In the United States, many of the still active trains were eliminated immediately. The sometimes appealing, sometimes appalling diversity of service offered in the last years was lost and a certain sameness applied. New but often less-appealing equipment was acquired and placed into service. Always strapped for money, Amtrak continues to operate as best it can with what little it has, always wondering if, by the grace of congress, there is a future.

In addition to Amtrak and VIARail, a few railroads still offer their own passenger service: BCRail recently ended all its passenger service, but Algoma Central still operates regularly scheduled trains in Canada (as well as trains designed specifically for the tourist crowd), and the Alaska Railroad runs its own trains in Alaska.

Some regular trains still offer extraordinary scenery and good old-fashioned services: dining cars, sleeping cars and observation cars are still to be found. Notably the Canadian (VIARail) crosses the spectacular Canadian Rockies and still carries vintage sleeping cars (including old-fashioned open-section sleepers), vista-dome cars, an observation car and a diner.

Fantastic scenery, but newer and less appealing equipment are offered on Amtrak's California Zephyr, Coast Starlight, and others.

Special Trains
In the glory days of American railroad passenger service, at least some of the trains were operated with considerable pride. Tight schedules were faithfully met on a daily basis, extra cars and sections (additional trains) were operated to meet overflow demand, and service and cuisine were extraordinary. Names that carried a definite cachet included the Twentieth Century Limited, the Super Chief and the California Zephyr.

I fondly recall the Santa Fe's exceptional Fred Harvey dining cars - the only time in my life when a finger bowl was part of the table service. I remember enjoying both the Sierras and the Rockies from the dome-observation car of the California Zephyr, riding the Panama Limited on the long, straight, fast track north of Champaign, Illinois and cruising silently across Wyoming while eating in the dome diner of the City of Portland and watching the antelope at play.

Now there are several special trains operating with routings calculated to please the rail cruise market. Some more than others also attempt to offer some of the extraordinary service characteristic of the prestige trains of old. The American Orient Express is the premier example of this new kind of service. They offer varying rail cruises in both the US and Canada using two complete trains. Routings are designed to appeal and include off rail excursions to parks, historic places and other sights of interest. Railway cars are finely refurbished older cars including an observation car from the Twentieth Century Limited. The service and cuisine are legendary. Other examples of this type of service are the Rocky Mountaineer and, perhaps the ultimate: the Royal Canadian Pacific.

There are numerous dinner trains, and in California the Napa Valley Wine Train to satisfy the desire for shorter rail trips.

Preserved Railways
There are many railroads in North America that now exist primarily for historic or scenic interest (often both). The British who are especially good at this call them "preserved railways". Many of these, often little lines, operate historic equipment: especially steam power; some are narrow gauge. Noteworthy examples are the Durango & Silverton, the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad, the White Pass & Yukon and the Grand Canyon Railway.

Private Railroad Cars
Many years ago, instead of a private airplane, railroad officials and people of wealth and position owned or rented their own private railroad car (sometimes cars). These special, often-luxurious, cars were usually attached to the rear of regular passenger trains where the view was best and where the traveling public could be excluded. The typical layout was an observation room at the rear overlooking the open platform (once popular for political speeches), several bedroom suites, a formal dining room, and then the galley and crew's quarters.

Cars like this (in private hands) reached low ebb, probably in the 1960s, when Lucius Beebe wrote his book, Mansions on Rails. At the time there was but one car other than the author's own Virginia City.

Now, once again, there are many private railroad cars in occasional operation and many of those are available for organized trips or individual rental, including the Virginia City itself.

Railroads such as the Algoma Central and the Durango & Silverton rent railroad owned cars for use on their own trains.

Regular Service
Amtrak in the US and VIARail in Canada provide most of the extant, regular, non-commuter passenger rail service. But there are a few exceptions:

Alaska Railroad operates between Seward, Whittier and Fairbanks, Alaska
800-544-0552, http://www.akrr.com/passenger/index.html

Algoma Central operates between Sault Ste. Marie and Hearst, Ontario via Agawa Canyon: 800-242-9287 or 705-946-7300, http://www.agawacanyontourtrain.com

Amtrak: 800-USA-RAIL
http://www.amtrak.com/

Ontario Northland: 800-461-8558, http://www.ontc.on.ca/

VIARail: 888 VIA RAIL, http://www.viarail.ca/

Quebec North Shore & Labrador Railway operates between Sept-Iles, Quebec and Schefferville, Newfoundland: 418 968-7803

Special Trains
Similar to a cruise on land and planned around a scenic route, these trains offer varying levels of service.

American Orient Express: 800-320-4206, http://www.americanorientexpress.com/

John Steel Tours: 800-988-5778, http://www.johnsteel.com/home/index.php

Montana Rockies Rail Tour: 800-519-7245, http://www.montanarailtours.com

Napa Valley Wine Train : 800-427-4124, http://www.winetrain.com/

Rocky Mountaineer Railtours: 800-665-7245, http://www.rockymountaineer.com

Royal Canadian Pacific: 877-665-3044, http://www.cprtours.com/

Preserved Railways
Preserved railways are railroads kept alive for historical interest, spectacular scenery, operation of historic equipment, or sometimes all of the above.

Cass Scenic Railroad State Park, Cass, West Virginia 800-225-5982, http://www.cassrailroad.com

Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad, Chama, New Mexico or Antonito, Colorado
888-286-2737, http://www.cumbrestoltec.com/main.shtml

Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, Durnago, Colorado 999-442-4222, http://www.durangotrain.com/

East Broad Top Railroad, Rockhill Furnace, Pennsylvania 814-447-3011

Grand Canyon Railroad, Williams, Arizona 800-THE-TRAIN
http://www.thetrain.com/

Royal Gorge Route, Canon City, Colorado 888-724-5748, http://www.royalgorgeroute.com/

Strasburg Rail Road, Strasburg, Pennsylvania 717-687-7522, http://www.strasburgrailroad.com/

Verde Canyon Railroad, Clarkdale, Arizona 800-320-0718, http://www.verdecanyonrr.com/VerdeCanyonRailroad.htm

White Pass & Yukon Route, Skagway, Alaska 800-343-7373, http://www.whitepassrailroad.com/

Private Railroad Cars
Always the ultimate in railroad travel, for those who could afford them, these cars have enjoyed a minor renaissance in recent years. The American Association of Private Car Owners provides online information on member cars available for rental. American

Association of Private Car Owners (AARPCO), http://www.aaprco.com/

Virginia City - Lucius Beebe's own private car, 650-369-5405, http://www.vcrail.com/